YOU used to be able to count on an anxious queue down the drafty hall of the Post Office Centre on Rudd Road every night from 6pm onwards, and for one reason only: Assaggi, which opened at 6.30pm, did not take reservations.

Thankfully, this has changed. Assaggi expanded some time ago and can accommodate many more than the number of patrons who used to sit cheek-by-jowl in the front half of the deli.

The mother-and-son team of Luciana Righi and Giancarlo Pironi, who arrived from Ravenna, Italy, in the 1980s, turn out food so sublime that they define the genre; attempts by other restaurants, even the first-rate ones, seem to be pale imitations of the real thing.

Assaggi's gnocchi is lighter than anyone else's; its bruschetta is the ultimate; the osso bucco and veal chops are justly famous; and as for the linguine with clams, words fail.

The restaurant is one of three Johannesburg establishments to appear in the Dine 100 list of Top 10 Restaurants: Everyday Eating, sponsored by Wine magazine and Diners Club International (the others are La Cucina di Ciro and Deluxe).

Assaggi is not known for its desserts, but the coffee is good. Starters range from the mid-R40s to the mid-R50s. Main dishes run from R68 (for gnocchi) up to the mid-R90s.

Post Office Centre, 30 Rudd Road, Illovo
Telephone: 011 268 1370
Hours: Lunch Tuesday-Saturday 12.30-2pm; dinner Monday-Saturday 6.30-9pm