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A section of Jeppe Street in
downtown Joburg has fast become known for its exotic sounds, bright colour
and bargain basement prices.
BY now many Joburgers have heard
about - and perhaps visited - "Little Ethiopia" along Jeppe Street, on the
eastern side of the inner city.
Selling a range of spices
With its heart in the middle
of the Johannesburg CBD, the district is increasingly drawing large crowds to
this part of town, which has become home to one of the largest groups of
Ethiopians in the city.
Many of them have set up
clothing shops and the area's transformation into an Ethiopian district has
been swift. It is now the dominant characteristic of this part of the city of
gold. In the past few years, immigrants from Ethiopia have bought property and
set up businesses in what was previously a neglected part of town - and in so
doing have transformed the strip into a hub of community life, buzzing with
colour and affability.
Their reasons for migration
are diverse; they range from a merciless drought to escaping bloody war and a crack
down on political dissent.
Arriving on Jeppe Street, one
is welcomed by loud music blaring from large black speakers placed on the
pavements to attract customers. Taxis hoot loudly, trying to compete, as they
take their passengers to work; street traders cram the pavements selling their wares
to passers-by, who move quickly through the hustle and bustle as they go about
their daily business.
Trendy, multi-coloured
clothes and sleek, shiny bags are displayed for sale outside the narrow shopfront
entrances.
Sights and sounds
Walking down the street, one is drawn to the musical sounds of Amharic and
Tigrinya, two of Ethiopia's main languages, and the enticing rhythms of singers
like Ejigayehu Shibababaw that float out of the shops and swirl casually above
the traffic din.
Stores bringing life to the CBD
Even early in the morning,
most shops are already packed with customers searching for good bargains.
Inside one, a woman picks up a bunch of red brassieres and asks for the prices
from a nearby shop assistant. "Five rand," the shop assistant replies.
Not believing her luck, the
woman grabs five more brassieres and dashes off to pay for the items at a
nearby till.
"This area is full and there
is constant expansion," says Samuel Zerea, who runs a successful fashion store
on the street. "We bought abandoned buildings, renovated them and cleaned up this
area to make it what it is."
Little Ethiopia stretches for
roughly 20 blocks around Von Welligh and Mooi streets - 20 blocks known for heavy foot traffic,
where people dart in and out of stores carrying large, multi-coloured bags. And
there has been an increase in the number of shoppers seeking lower prices as
the recession bites harder.
According to Ab Wajebo, the district
has become popular because of the taxi rank and the nearby train station. "What
is exciting about Little Ethiopia is that it is a block long, devoted to many
different types of businesses. People can shop for all kinds of things,
including men's and women wear," he says.
Wajebo is one of a cluster of
Ethiopian entrepreneurs who have brought life to the long neglected street. They
have worked long hours buying and renovating properties, opening shops and
offices.
Arrived
The makeover of this part of the town has not only drawn new customers but also
attracted other businesses, such as McDonald's, London Pie and DoRegos. "This indicates
that the Ethiopians have arrived, are here to stay and have stood up to be
counted as vibrant members of Johannesburg," Wajebo says proudly.
John Kechole, chairperson of the East African Crime Stop Association, which monitors security in the area
A few metres from his store,
38-year-old Joseph Yahweh, another Ethiopian trader, haggles with a customer
over the price of a pair of black jeans. "I am only R5 short Zachariah, please
let me have the jeans," the customer pleads. After some hard bargaining, Yahweh
agrees.
"This street is our space, a
place we can be proud of," Yahweh says. "This block was once a dead block.
There was no money being generated for the city."
Yahweh arrived from Ethiopia
three years ago without a cent in a pocket. He borrowed some money from a few
friends and started selling belts and bags in the street. After successfully raising
money, he opened a shop.
Hard work
Up the street, Rashid Mohammed of Bafana Wholetraders, who emigrated from
Ethiopia more than a decade ago, arranges clothes neatly outside his store to
attract customers.
"Before I started this business
I worked in the streets of Soweto and sold whatever I could get my hands on," he
says. "After earning enough capital, I started to buy stuff from China City in
Ellis Park and made enough money to set up a business in the city."
While the industrious Ethiopians
are ensuring the area thrives, being the owner of a small business involves
long hours and little pay. "I had to work hard to survive in South Africa
because no one was willing to help me," Mohammed says.
His colleague, Daniel
Waldebirhen, the owner of Jumbo Wholesalers, says despite the popularity of the
strip, he still struggles to make a profit. "At times I am forced to sell
products at very low prices just to attract customers and I hardly get any
profit. It is difficult for me to raise the price because of stiff
competition," Waldebirhen says.
Ameleke Senay, another
business owner, says most Ethiopian businessmen still face difficulties in
opening business bank accounts. Like many of his countrymen in Joburg, he has
temporary resident asylum papers, which are not recognised by banks.
Rashid Mohammed of Bafana Wholetraders
Despite the obstacles, Senay
hopes to get capital one day and expand his business.
Bargains
The low prices are one of the main attractions in this part of the CBD. A quick
cruise around the shops reveals that clothes are priced between R5 and R75 for
an item. And it's not just residents who are cashing in.
A crossborder trader from
Zimbabwe, Lovemore Madhuza, says he regularly comes to Little Ethiopia to buy
clothes because of the affordable prices. "I often buy clothes in bulk and
resell them at a flea market in my hometown. The Ethiopians have definitely
brought a positive effect to the city."
Some believe the changes have
helped the street, which for many years has been characterised by crime. Miriam
Kumali, another shopper, thinks Little Ethiopia will be successful. "Hopefully
it will increase business and decrease in crime," she says.
And indeed, the immigrants
are actively fighting crime, going so far as to set up a security association. John
Kechole, the chairperson of the East African Crime Stop Association, which
monitors security in the area, attributes the growth of Little Ethiopia to the
improved safety in the district.
"A few years ago people were
scared to come to this part of the town because of armed robberies. The only
problems we now have are pickpockets taking chances," he says.
Ethiopia
Ethiopia is one of the few countries in Africa never to have been colonised,
along with Liberia, and Lesotho and Botswana, which were British protectorates.
An ancient country, it has
cultures and traditions dating back more than 3 000 years. It has 80 different
ethnic groups with their own languages, cultures and traditions.
A strongly religious country,
celebrations and festivals play an important part in daily life. Church
ceremonies feature largely in the calendar. The Ethiopian Orthodox Church has
its own leader, follows its own customs and is extremely proud of its fourth
century origins.
Ethiopia's Islamic tradition
is also strong and offers a colourful contrast, particularly in the eastern and
southeastern parts of the country.
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