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Something for everyone was the feeling
among fashionistas after this year's Audi Joburg Fashion Week, where autumn and
winter collections took centre stage.
THE annual Audi Joburg Fashion Week came to
a close in spectacular style on Saturday, 23 January at the Sandton Convention
Centre after four days of showcasing designers' autumn/winter collections for
2010.
The glamour on the ramp: A Spiro Villioti creation (Courtesy: Simon Deiner of SDR)
Designers from across the country offered up
their works to critics and fashionistas, who conceded at the end of the week
that "there definitely was something for everyone to wear this year". At least
700 people attended one show a day throughout the week, with popular designers
such as Craig Jacobs being sold out.
The Audi Joburg Fashion Week began on Wednesday,
20 January. "The designs weren't as outrageous as most of us had anticipated,"
said one audience member.
Attracting the who's who of Joburg and the
rest of the country, the event did not disappoint. More than 20 designers each
with no less than 15 outfits per range took part in the fashion week, which is
regarded as the platform for Africa's fashion leaders.
The finale included the collection of
popular fashion house, Thula Sindi, Suzaan Heyns and Stefania Morland, who won
an Audi A5 sports back. The award is given to the designer who best integrates
Audi's philosophy of progressive sophistication, luxury and sexiness into their
collection. The winner is able to use the car for 12 months.
The fashion week is a go-to-guide for
people who want to follow trends, know what is in or simply keep stylish. It is
aimed at keeping the local fashion and clothing industry abreast of
international trends, while incorporating local flavour into the creations.
Fresh designs
Designers with collections featured at Joburg Fashion Week ranged from
international fashion houses such as Karen Millen, Fabiani and Carducci Woman,
to locals such as Spero Villioti and Thula Sindi.
Some shows were simple and straight to the point,
while others - think Abigail Keats, Dax Martin, Fundudzi by Craig Jacobs, Heni,
Errol Arendz and Craig Port - were "out of the box".
In line with international trends, the
palettes were black, white, red, purple, gold and bright summery shades.
Dominated by above-the-knee skirts and dresses, suits, jackets and trench coats
made a minimum appearance. Lace, velvet and pearls made a comeback.
The trends were throwbacks to old Hollywood
glamour, some with a biker edge. "This winter you don't have to wear clothes
that are heavy," said Leigh Schubert after her show. "You can layer something
light with clothes that have volume."
Fantastical structures
David Tlale, the renowned local couturier, split from the rest of the pack on
Friday night to steal the spotlight. Instead of showcasing his collections at
the Sandton Convention Centre, he held a private off-site show at Circa Gallery
in Rosebank to present his "Fantastical structures" collection.
Frantic preparations behind the scenes
He said he drew inspiration from the
iconoclastic structural designs of the contemporary buildings in Dubai, such as
the Pinnacle, a white building with sharp angles and composed lines.
He chose a metallic palette of bronze,
gold, copper, onyx, browns and a dash of red, highlighting the detailed
constructional elements. Leather and PVC were used to exaggerate the
architectural feel.
"The relationship between fashion and
architecture is not a particularly oblique one," explained Tlale. "Both are
based on structure, shape and pretty basic necessities: clothes and shelter ... exploring
the existing correlation between the two basics and translating them into
contemporary fashion was only a natural progression for us."
Behind the scenes
With the lights trained on the catwalk, backstage models, make-up artists,
hairstylists and designers frantically went about their preparations to make
sure the shows were successful. Girls ran up and down in bathrobes, fitting on outfits
and getting last minute touch-ups before the cameras and crowd fixed their eyes
on them.
"I need a flower in my hair," said a model
running in the corridors before the Fundudzi show. Behind the scenes, it is "make-up,
hair and go".
Millen Magese, originally from Tanzania,
started modelling at the age of 16, when she first came to South Africa.
Now a Joburger at heart, the former Miss
Tanzania has been involved in the fashion week since it began in 2006. "Modelling
has always been my passion," she said, adding that she had appeared on catwalks
in Paris, Milan and New York.
Magese's big break came in February 2009,
when global giants Ford Models, an international modelling agency with names
such as Tyra Banks on its books, offered her a contract to join its New York
branch.
"Being part of the Joburg Fashion Week is
like being part of a big family," she said smiling. "I've been with the same
hairstylist and make-up artist since I was a teenager." Magese is also the face
of the newly established Africa Fashion Week, also owned by African Fashion
International (AFI).
"I plan to stay in the local fashion
industry even when my modelling days are over," she said of her future plans. "I
want to give back to young people in Joburg and the broader South African
community ... There are a lot of girls who want to get into modelling, but just
don't know how or have the right guidance."
She did not have a particular favourite
local designer, she said, because "all of them are great with the market they
design for". Her style was very classic, glamorous, stylish and yet
comfortable. "You don't have to like just one particular designer. You can mix
and match and when it all comes together it should be an outfit that makes any
woman feel confident."
Detailed planning
As soon as the doors shut on the fashion week in 2009, AFI, which owns the
fashion week brand, went straight to work on this year's autumn/winter shows.
Precious Moloi-Motsepe, the chairperson of AFI,
said the event was about giving local designers a launch pad to international
markets. "AFI aims to improve the quality of fashion design output from Africa,"
she explained, "to promote African brands and to dramatically raise the profile
of fashion designers from the continent."
She said the in-house creative director,
Deon Redman, had invited designers to participate who showed innovation through
their designs. "The selection process is very important because there are
strict criteria to which AFI adheres ... The clothing has to represent and show
what South African fashion is about."
The quality of the collection would have to
be of high standard and not be a duplication of any international designers.
"We encourage futuristic designers because showing creativity is key."
The AFI arranges buyers and initiates a
relationship between them and the designers. The company works on finding
sponsors, potential clients and links them with business people, personalities
and community leaders, among others.
"Designers that showcase at international
fashion weeks have to carry the cost of the fashion show themselves, which
includes the venue, the models, clothing ... We go about finding the designers
the right sponsors and most of them don't pay to present their collections,"
she explained.
For designers to qualify to take part in
the annual event, they first had to graduate at Durban Fashion Week. The Cape
Town Fashion Week had also worked with that city's local council to allow
upcoming designers to participate.
They are taught how to find buyers, liaise
with the media and get hands-on experience within a fashion studio.
Moloi-Motsepe, though, said AFI was aware
that not everyone was a graduate from a design school, which was why the
company also looked for designers with raw talent. "If there is talent there,
we will make sure it gets incorporated into the fashion week."
For more information, contact AFI's fashion
liaison officer, Lorato Liphuko, on 011 269 6960 or visit the AFI website.
The fashion train next stops in the Western
Cape for Cape Town Fashion Week Spring/Summer Collections, in June. Joburg will
then host the Africa Fashion Show, which runs from 30 June to 3 July.
For more information on the upcoming
fashion weeks, visit the AFI website
or call 011 269 6960.
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